
Ah,
the best laid plans... usually aren't that well planned after all, are
they? Foolish little me, there I was thinking that I'd just hop that
old B train on a leisurely Sunday. But oh no no no says B, it shan't be
so. See, the B doesn't run on weekends. Or late nights, for that
matter. The extra tricky part was that, before heading out, we weren't
sure when the train would stop running. But I said, meh. It's not as if
there won't be any trains at all, now is it? Umm... hope not?
Thus, a weeknight journey for we adventurers. I knew that my darling Jonathan would join me if only for safety's sake - since I'd be out till at least 11
or so, in unknown neighborhoods and all. But Friday is his evening to
decompress from the week, so I also knew he wouldn't really want to spend that time riding the subway for five or six hours. As such, I
attempted to recruit super-awesome former co-worker Kelly M. to be my
subway support system for the evening.
She
was shockingly receptive to the idea - I don't know how many of my
friends are actually that willing to ride the subway with me for hours
on end as I obsessively snap photos and talk into a tape recorder like
a crazy person. But hey, she's a philosopher, so I guess she could see
the merit. Or something. I dunno. I think it's fun, and I was hoping
she would too. It seemed like a go... until she found out about the
Brazilian Girls show. Oh well, easy come, easy go I guess.
And so, back to my rock, Mr. J.B. He wasn't gonna let me not go, and he sure as hell wasn't gonna let me go alone. So, feeling
guilty about stealing his Friday night downtime, I devised this plan:
that we would only get out at stops that couldn't be explored via other
lines. The vast majority of B stops are also stops on the C, Q, D, V,
or F lines - plenty of opportunities to get those shots I think. And
except for the V, those lines run on weekends.
Plans
thus coerced and truncated, we set off tonight. Since I got off of work
at 5 and he not until almost 6, it was practically 7pm before we made
it to the 7th Avenue stop at 53rd street where I'd determined it would
be most convenient to pick up the old IND 6th Avenue line. A touch of
irony there, perhaps? Oh well.
As
for the 53rd street station, it's not what you'd call exciting. It's
where I catch the E sometimes, if I'm heading from the Columbus Circle
area to my studio on Long Island City. It's one of those confusing
stations where all the uptown trains are on one platform (downstairs)
and all the downtown trains are on the other (upstairs), so that both
trains on one platform come from the same direction. For me, at least,
this always means I don't know which direction the train will come
from. Somehow everyone else does, though, so I just look in the
direction they're looking and assume that's where the train will be
coming from. I suppose there are bigger problems in life, but still, it
irks me.
Wanting
to hit Sugar Hill before dark (unknown territory, you know, and better
pictures) we first headed north. On the way we ran into some
breakdancers weary from their long day in the sun. We noticed the kid
carrying a five foot roll of linoleum, and at first we thought he was
just helping his mom remodel the kitchen. But then we spotted his very
similarly dressed cousin and quickly figured it out. If you haven't
witnessed many breakdancing troupes, you may not know that one of the
gimmicks is that they always, have, well,
"the
Puerto Rican". He'll be pointed out during the show, as in, "but you
don't have to watch out for the _______ guys (whatever the speaker is
fills in the blank), you gotta watch out for THE PUERTO RICANS!" as
"the Puerto Rican" points to himself proudly and smiles slyly.
Sometimes "the Puerto Rican" is a girl, which is always fun. It's just
part of the shtick, like the trick where they jump over 8 people. Well,
we found him - from one troupe anyway, one that wears red shorts - and
damn was he tired. You can't tell in this particular photo, sadly, but
his stylish sunglasses sport a motif of the P.R. flag.
Anyway,
the express lived up to its name, and despite making local stops along
Central Park we were up to 145th street in no time. The neighborhood we
were popped into was kind of surprisingly charming. Why surprisingly? I
don't know exactly. Probably because I know the area just 20 blocks
south so well, and it's quite different and not what I would call
charming in any way really. But then, in cities like New York, "just"
and "20 blocks" don't really belong in the same sentence. Homogeny is
for suburbs.
Sugar
Hill does indeed have a gentle rolling hilliness to it. It also has
rows of the most beautiful brownstones you ever did see, with that
wonderful curved front the architectural name of which I do not know.
Sadly, as in its cousin neighborhoods to the south and west, the area
reeks of impending (and some ongoing) gentrification. Nevertheless, the
streets were running over with children at play, parents shopping for
groceries, grandmothers out for an evening stroll in the twilight sun -
all people that seemed to have lived in the neighborhood for decades,
generations. Within these groups many races were represented, very few
of them of European descent. Yes, up there in Sugar Hill me and my man
stuck out like sore thumbs. Didn't seem to bother anybody any though;
they just went on with their evenings, and we were glad of it.
Back
on the train, and due to previously stated plan of swift travel I was
relegated to (trying to) take pictures from within its confines. This
was of course made much more difficult by the fact that it was still
more or less rush hour - a fact which was indeed confirmed by the B
still being in operation, actually. Basically, people kept getting in
the way of my shots. The upside of this was that I got some good shots
of, well, people. It being Friday night, after a long hard week,
(because isn't every week a long hard week?) many of those people were
quite tired.
We traversed the Manhattan bridge and saw one of the damn waterfalls that everyone's been making so much noise about - and sorry, but it's
ugly. It's water falling off of scaffolding, and it cost an obscene
amount of money - 15 million bucks obscene, that is. Art is great, I'm
all for it, but all for one art project? And an ugly one at that?
Supposedly he used scaffolding to mirror the ever-changing face of the
city - in other words the constant construction that drives us all
crazy. Why would we want to look at more scaffolding? I wonder what 15 mil could do for the NYC public school
system. Or to run down parks in, say, Bed Stuy. Nice effort I suppose,
but no dice.
I
attempted to take pictures from the train... see, I love my camera, and
in a lot of ways for many purposes it's an excellent camera. But
unfortunately speed of focus, shutter speed, and rapid-fire shooting
are not among its strengths. In other words, I got a bunch of blurry
blotches. I also kept managing to only get shots of support beams - I'd
say about a 20% chance there but more like 90% of my pics. Maybe I
should play the lotto tonight - or maybe I'll just get struck by
lightning.
Shortly
into Brooklyn we reached our first get-off-stop - DeKalb Avenue. My 50¢
MTA Art In Transit guidebook had tipped me off to an installation here.
It was kind of hard to find, and kind of odd when we found it. A bit
Picassoesque, with its random geometric forms and musical instrument
parts. And inexplicably the king (of clubs) and queen (of hearts
perhaps) flanking to the left and right (respectively). Whatever floats
your boat there, Stephen Johnson. (Apparently there's a much larger
installation in another part of the station - I'll find it when I'm
riding one of the other three trains that goes there, I suppose. I also
suppose we didn't really need to get out there this trip, but oh well.)
Our
next stop was the next stop, Atlantic Avenue. This proved to be quite
interesting, though not for the reasons we'd hoped. It's actually a
massive hub, and I must have been exhausted (or smoking rock) or
something when I decided that it was one of the places we needed to
step into on this ride. It served a function though - mainly in that it
has functioning and unlocked men's and women's bathrooms. Of these facilities, I was in great need.
I can't say that it was a pleasant experience, nor one that provided all necessities, if you know what I mean. And there were some interesting,
um, remnants crammed into various corners. It was however not nearly as
bad as it could have been, considering.
The
artwork at the station was disappointing; granted, it's massive, but
all it is is these swoops of gray granite throughout the station. It
apparently took several collaborators too, I suppose due to its scale.
It does add a certain je ne sait quois to the station overall, but I
don't know that I'd call it "art", any more than I'd call all the fancy
buildings in midtown "art". Of course, some of them I would... but I
digress.
Downstairs on the actual B / Q platform there was some
old BMT signage - once you're in Brooklyn, you're riding on the old BMT
Brighton Beach line. Trying to take a picture of one of these signs, I
ended up standing rather close to the platform edge. But not close
enough to warrant what happened next.
The Q train entering the
station wasn't honking or slowing down, mainly because I wasn't
encroaching upon its track space in the least. Jonathan, who's rather
nervous about train platform boundaries, wasn't perturbed in the least
by my positioning. Despite this an angry young man felt it necessary to
shout, "move, you dumb bitch!" at me from about 30 feet down the
platform. Some people just have too much hostility in them I guess.

I took the picture from a different angle.
From
there it was just a zip straight shot to the end for us. Good thing,
too, as my camera battery was flashing red at me due to its perilously
low charge. And thankfully, sensibly, this line has only one end (unlike the A train).
For a while we were in a channel that was sort of still underground but
exposed to sky - it was very cool, I thought - and then ended up fully
above ground. All the lines seem to, once you get far enough out. And
then, rather quickly again due to the express-ness, we were at Brighton
Beach. Pulling into the station, the conductor made it sparklingly
clear that that particular train was done for the evening and in fact
for the week, it being Friday. That it was, in fact, headed "for
storage". Well OK then, I guess we wouldn't be riding that one back
into town. We were planning to wander for a minute anyway.
The
Manhattan-bound platform has some art, sculpture that's some kind of
business people morphing into dolphins type idea. It's kinda cool. I
managed to get some pictures - red light still flashing away on my
camera's screen, but it showed me a little mercy. Since Jonathan wanted
(and deserved, by this point) a cigarette, and since it's silly to go
all that way and then not hit the street, we dismounted.
And quickly realized that we've actually been there before. When we went to the Mermaid Parade this year we wandered far, far down the boardwalk and dined in Brighton
Beach, at one of the local Russian establishments (Potatoes and pickled
mushrooms, anyone? No really, the food was excellent. We're big fans of
potatoes and pickled mushrooms. I'm eating pickled mushrooms right now,
but they're Polish.). Coming back we were actually cold, so we traveled
streets as opposed to the waterfront. I'd suspected this synchronicity
whilst perusing the map, but then I'd thought, no, we didn't walk that far did we? But yep, we did.
Brighton
Beach is referred to as "Little Russia by the Sea", and they ain't
kiddin'. Neither am I, for that matter - it's not just something people
say or something I made up; it's on banners that are hung in the street
and everything. (Please excuse the blurry picture; this is exactly the
moment when my camera finally died so I didn't get a second go at it.
It's a frustrating situation; on these trips I take a lot of pictures -
I only post a precious few of them here, but for example on this trip I
took 160 before the battery went kaput. I really need a backup battery,
and if I have that possibly a memory card as well.) The high Russian
population concentration, paired with the juxtaposition of the Coney
Island neighborhoods, makes this a unique area indeed. Though with its
elevated subways and multiculturalism, it actually kind of feels like
home - we live in Astoria, after all. Just wait till we get to Ditmars
and you'll see what I mean.
We didn't spend long on the ground;
I was still hoping to ride the B back into town. Well, we'd missed that
boat (train). It was simply too late. B's were pulling in at the
Brooklyn bound platform, and then roaming off into the night, never to
round around to our side and bring us into Manhattan once again. So it
goes. This left us waiting for the Q train.
While we waited, we
heard something. And then we smelled something (we were downwind). And
then finally we saw something - and that something was fireworks. They
were coming from the direction of Coney Island, unsurprisingly, and
they were exquisite. We walked to the far back end of the platform for
the best view (though slightly obstructed by buildings) and stood
there, holding hands, basking in our B train accomplishment and
witnessing the pyrotechnic display that we did not get to see last
weekend.
Googling it later, this is what I found on the awesome Coney Island Website:
Fireworks on the Beach
Astroland
and Deno's Wonder Wheel Park sponsor fireworks at 9:30 every Friday
night during the season. Fireworks generally start the last weekend in
June and conclude the Friday before Labor Day. For specific questions
about the fireworks, please contact Astroland (718-265-2100) or Deno's
(718-449-8836) directly.
Awesome right? And to think,
this is supposed to be Astroland's last season if Thor Industries has
its way. Check out the website to know what the hell I'm talking about.
And
so, thus concluded our B train travels. I was disappointed that we
didn't get to ride the B back in as well, but so it goes. We fulfilled
the goal of riding end to end, and that's what counts. It's weekdays
only, and early at that, and like a big dumb dolt I waited until
becoming employed full time to start this project. So at this point in
some instances I have to take what I can get.
And
the B train? For now, the B train sleeps. A rest for you, so that
Monday morning you can appear orange-eyed and bushey-tailed for weary
commuters on their way to dreaded offices. Sleep tight, little B.